The grass IS greener

   Forget what you’re told about the grass always looking greener.  After the rain and greyness of the Argentine Lakes District our time in Pucon on the Chilean side was truly a welcome change.  Our journey from San Martin de los Andes (to be fair – sunny with nice walks - see photo) to Pucon was one of those bus trips where you spend most of the time trying to take the perfect photo out of the dusty window of a moving bus on a bumpy road, only to get there and find out you need not have bothered, the views are far better at the end.

 Volcan Lanin (at about the border post between Argentina and Chile)

Volcan Vilarica (the view from Pucon town centre)

   When we crossed the border back into Chile I very sensibly avoided another customs infraction and was able enjoy the show (albeit with some sympathy) as someone else was busted trying to smuggle honey.  The customs post is fabulously situated at the foot of Volcan Lanin.  The siting is spectacular but it could hardly be otherwise in this part of the world.  Majestic perfectly conical volcanoes are what they do here.  Our next three nights were in Pucon, on the shore of Lago Vilarica where the lower slopes of Volcan Vilarica meet the water. 

   With perfect weather (i.e. no clouds and lots of sun) we not only spent much of our time on the black sand beach but also being told by other guests at our hostel about the amazing ascent of the volcano.  And the white-water rafting.  And the canyoning.  And the treetop canopy.  Temptations all, but in the end we did none of these.  Our budget is still recovering from Patagonia and our travels will take us past further (hopefully cheaper) volcanoes, rivers, forests and canyons.

 At the refugio in Reserva el Cani

 more views from El Cani

   We met up with Nick and Amanda again and on their advice we went to the little visited Reserva el Cani.  It started out looking like a miserable day.  Low drizzle and the prospect of 6 hours hiking on steep hills put Kizzy in a bit of a mood.  Luckily this improved.  As we hiked, first up to and then into the cloud, more light gathered around us.  We emerged into a magical setting of forest and small lakes, perfect campsites and almost no-one else around.  The final push at the top of the trail took us to a lookout with views out two three volcanoes (including Lanin and Vilarica) jutting above the blanket of cloud beneath us. 

 Relaxing in the Termas los Pozones

our favorite spot on the beach on Lago Vilarica

   We had a quick bite to eat and some hurried photos before rushing back down through the cloud to be on time for our bus to an evening at Los Pozones thermal springs.   This was the ideal way to relax after a strenuous trek.  The next day we chilled out by the beach again (still recovering), before setting off on the overnight bus to Santiago.